October Scrapbook: the good, and cosy, things to do in the Cotswolds
It's the start of fire season.
Autumn is here. That was quick. But I don’t mind because it’s the time for cosy nights in, by the fire, or piling into a roasting corner of the pub for pies and pints of Guinness for a quiz night. This time of year makes me fall in love with pubs more than summer does. Yes, I love the London street spillage (or countryside garden spillage), the crashing sound waves of post-work chat you can hear from a block away, but there’s something crunchy and wholesome about heading to the pub when it’s cold (or, right now, colder) out. Root vegetables are often on the menu in some shape or form, as are big braised bowls of locally reared meat (right now it’s game), a burger (smash burgers have sort of made their way out here in the Cotswolds) and bloody good pints of beer. So, here are some events (including public houses) to head to this month, including a new opening with branding so good it’s already got me booking.
Penelope Chilvers has taken over the now-shuttered Cutter Brooks shop in Stow-on-the-Wold. It's not totally new news as this happened earlier last month, but it will be a lovely addition to the market town.
More on this later, but the Masons Arms is the newest pub in the Country Creatures collection (and their branding is spot on). It’s a very Gothic-looking coaching inn that’s now dishing out big burgers, ales and sticky toffee pudding soft-serve ice cream. It officially opens on October 16th, with rooms to come later this year.
The TOAST shop in Cheltenham has finally reopened after suffering from a pretty bad leak that put them out of business for a while. We are happy they’re back.
Also, in Cheltenham, a new sandwich shop is feeding hungry locals in Montpellier. Loaf and Co, sister to the successful Rainbowls (smoothies, bowls, colourful healthy plates), will follow suit with good ingredients and good flavours stuffed between two pieces of bread.
Now – the Cheltenham Literary Festival is on. Days are filled with talks, readings, launches, discussions and more.
Also now – the newest pub to join the Country Creatures clan (Double Red Duke and a handful in London), The Mason’s Arms, is in its soft launch phase. Joining the village of Clanfield (also where the DRD is), the pub is pushing out tall stacked burgers, roast chicken, prawn cocktails and a two-course Sunday roast for £35. It will open properly on October 16th, with rooms also in the works.
It would also be a good time to visit Batsford Arboretum (or any of the arboretums and gardens – Westonbirt, Painswick Rococo). Their websites should have a little chart (or an Autumn watch) that shows how colourful the trees are, so time it right.
October 11th – pop-up supper at Cornerhouse in Eynsham. I’ve yet to check out this sleeper hit cafe – it looks excellent – so I will be looking at tickets for this one.
Also on this day is Autumn wreath making at Chippy Flower Farm…day I say the festive season is getting near…
October 20th – Ordinary Folk, the Stroud-based band, will be playing at The Woolpack in Slad. Serious tunes with a side of cider.
October 21st – this one is sold out (sorry!) but so worth a shout-out. Chloe, of Chloe’s in Charlbury, is hosting a chat and snack event with women who work in hospitality in the Cotswolds. Christine Bottine and Maia Keeling of The Straw Kitchen in Whichford are kicking this series off.
October 25th – the Ben Pentreath talk sold out in minutes, but fear not, the team behind Thyme have a brilliant roster of incredible people who come to chat at the Southrop hotel (who just earned two Michelin keys – the new accolade from the group but now, for hotels). See their events this month here.
October 26th – it’s the Apple Day feast at Daylesford. It’s a full-on celebration of the crispy fruit and the farm’s bountiful orchards, all followed by a four-course feast, cider cocktails, folk music and lots of good conversation.
Looking ahead, but worth booking now – on November 6th, Will Bowlby of London’s Kricket restaurant (sort of modern Indian flavours) is coming to The Double Red Duke for a fiery set menu at £70 per head. Book here.
Lastly, every Saturday from now until Christmas, Conygree Farm, the regenerative farm on the Sherborne estate ( who happen to produce the most delicious veg and meat to buy ), will be open to stock up on goods.
It’s time for squash and lots of it. It’s also time for hearty soups, bitter leaves, spiced cakes and custard, globs and globs of custard. Here are the recipes I’m eyeing up to cook.
Endive, Basque cheese, raisins, pickled shallot, walnut and capers tossed in a vinaigrette by Emma Ranne
Roasted squash, ginger, coriander and coconut dahl by Julius Roberts
Brown-butter rosemary apple cake by Jess Elliott Dennison
Zucchini (the last of it) and saffron malloreddus (small, ridged, Sicilian pasta) with garlic, basil, olive oil & sea salt by Simone
Jammy figs on top of porridge with blackberries, almond butter, honey and hemp seeds by Hannah Wilding
Cover painting by Paul Cézanne. Still Life with Apples 1893–1894.